Alexandra

By Janine Le Cras

Named for probably the style icon of her day, Queen Alexandra, this cardigan echoes the classic Edwardian silhouette with peplum darts, waist shaping, and cabled faux princess line seams. The lapels are knitted as part of the fronts, as are the button holes. The neckline is neatened and stabilised with a row of single crochet.

Photographs: Claire Le Cras Model: Janine Le Cras

Size
Sizes: XS(S, M, L, XL, XXL)
To fit chest/bust: 71-76(81-86, 91.5–96.5, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127)cm/28-30(32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50)inches
Shown in size Large, on a model with a 42inch bust

Requirements
Yarn: 12(13,14,16,18,19) x 50g skeins Sublime Cashmere Merino Silk DK (70% extra fine merino/20% silk/10% cashmere, 116m/50g) in colour: Plum (0057)
Any DK yarn with a reasonable amount of drape can be substituted for this yarn.
Needles: 4 mm/US6, or size needed to obtain correct tension
Notions: 5 buttons

Tension
22 sts and 28 rows = 10cm/4inches in stocking stitch on 4mm needles after washing. Please note that this yarn grows quite a bit on washing.

Pattern Notes
Lifted increases, non standard cables and chart reading skills are needed to complete this design successfully. Please note that at several places in the pattern you will be working more than one set of instructions at a time, so read the pattern carefully before beginning.

Seed st (over an even number of sts):
Row 1: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.

make buttonhole - work 2sts in seed st, cast off 2sts, work 2sts in seed st. On the next row, cast on 2sts using the cable method to replace the 2sts cast off on the previous row.

Charts are available with the printable version of the pattern.

Abbreviations
cable 4 in front – slip 2sts onto a cable needle and hold them in front of work, k2 , then k 2sts from cable needle.
cable 4 behind – slip 2sts onto a cable needle and hold them behind work, k2, then k 2sts from cable needle.
cable 4 in front with decrease - slip 2sts onto a cable needle and hold them in front of work, k2tog, k1, k 2sts from cable needle.
cable 4 behind with decrease - slip 3sts onto a cable needle and hold them behind work, k2, k2tog, k 1st (3sts) from cable needle.
cable 7 decrease – slip 3sts onto a cable needle and hold them behind work, k2, k2tog, k 1st (3sts) from cable needle. Sl 2sts onto cable needle and hold in front of work, k2tog, k1, k the 2sts from the cable needle.

The Inside Loop list of standard abbreviations can be found here.

Instructions
Back:
Cast on 100(110, 122, 132, 138, 154)sts, k5 rows st st followed by one row reverse st st. This will form a hem with a turning row.
Set up row: k12(15, 18, 21, 22, 26). Work row 1 of cable chart, k26(30, 36, 40, 44, 52), work row 1 of cable chart, k12(15, 18, 21, 22, 26).
Continue working as set until you have completed the entire chart. This will complete the waist decreases.

To increase back up:
Continue to follow the braided cable chart (rows 47 to 50). Increase one st on either side of each cable by making a lifted increase between the two k sts closest to the cables (4sts in all).
Work this increase row every 8th(8th, 8th, 8th, 6th, 8th) row, 6(6, 6, 7, 8, 7) times. You will have 92(102, 114,128,138,150)sts.

Continue to work following the braided cable chart until work measures 35.5(36.25, 38, 38.75, 40.5, 41.25)cm/14.25(14.5, 15.25, 15.5, 16.25, 16.5)inches from the purl ridge of the hem.

Armhole shaping:
Cast off 4(5, 5, 5, 6, 6)sts at the beginning of the next two rows.
Cast off 3(3, 3, 4, 3, 3)sts at the beginning of the next two rows.
Cast off 1st at either end of the following 2(2, 2, 3, 3, 4) rs rows.
Continue working until armhole measures 16.5(17.5, 19, 20, 21.5, 23)cm/6.5(7, 7.5,8,8.5, 9)inches from the first decrease.

The shoulder and neck shapings are done at the same time, so please readthe instructions carefully before proceeding.

Cast off 9(9, 9, 10, 11, 11)sts at the beginning of the next row, k17(20, 20, 23,23, 25), place remaining sts on a stitch holder or waste yarn, turn work, p2tog , work in pattern to end of row.
Cast off 9(9, 9, 10, 10, 10)sts at the beginning of the next row, work to end, turn work, p2tog, work in pattern to end of row.
Cast off 6(7, 7, 7, 9, 9)sts at the beginning of the next row, turn work.
Sizes XS, S and M: work in pattern to end of row.
Sizes L, XL, XXL: p2tog, work in pattern to end of row.

Place remaining sts back on the needles. With the rs facing, cast off 22(26, 34, 38, 42, 46)sts, work to end of row in pattern

Cast off 9(9, 9, 10, 11, 11)sts at the beginning of the next row, k17(20, 20, 23, 23, 25), place remaining sts on a stitch holder or waste yarn, turn work, k2tog, work in pattern to end of row.
Cast off 9(9, 9, 10, 10, 10)sts at the beginning of the next row, work to end, turn work. k2tog, work in pattern to end of row
Cast off 6(7, 7, 7, 9, 9)sts at the beginning of the next row, turn work.
Sizes XS, S and M: work in pattern to end of row.
Sizes L, XL, XXL: k2tog, work in pattern to end of row.

Right Front:
Cast on 55(61, 67, 71, 75, 83)sts, k5 rows st st followed by one row reverse st st. This will form a hem with a turning row.
Set up row: [k1, p1] 3 times. These 6sts will form the buttonhole band and are to be worked in seed st (between the hem and the lapel shaping you will also work 5 buttonholes), k12(15, 18, 21, 22, 26), work row 1 of cable chart, k12(15, 18, 21, 22, 26).
Continue working as set until you have completed the entire chart to complete the waist decreases, continuing the seed st border as set and working 5 buttonholes, starting with the first one at 1½inches/3.75cm from the purl row of the hem, and then every 16(16, 18, 18, 20, 20) rows.

To increase back up:
Continue to follow the braided cable chart (rows 47 to 50). Increase 1st on either side of each cable by making a lifted increase between the two k sts closest to the cables (2sts in all).
Work this increase row every 8th(8th, 8th, 8th, 6th, 8th) row, 6(6, 6, 7, 8, 7) times. You will have 51(57, 63, 69, 75, 81)sts.

AT THE SAME TIME when work measures 26(27, 28.5, 29, 31, 32)cm/10.25(10.5, 11.25, 11.5, 12.25, 12.5)inches from the purl ridge of the hem, begin shaping the lapel. At this stage you will have also completed the buttonholes.

Shaping the lapel:
Extend the seed st border by incorporating 1st every rs row from the st st panel, until you have only 6(7, 7, 7, 9, 9) st st sts remaining on the neck side of the cable pattern. Once this point is reached, continue working the lapel on these sts until the shoulder shaping is reached.
Continue following the braided cable chart until work measures 35.5(36.25, 38, 38.75, 40.5, 41.25)cm/14.25(14.5, 15.25, 15.5, 16.25, 16.5)inches from the purl ridge of the hem.

Armhole shaping:
Cast off 4(5, 5, 5, 6, 6)sts at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row.
Cast off 3(3, 3, 4, 3, 3)sts at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row.
Cast off 1st at the beginning of the following 2(2, 2, 3, 3, 4) rs rows.
Continue working until armhole measures 16.5(17.5, 19, 20, 21.5, 23)cm/6.5(7, 7.5,8, 8.5, 9)inches from the first decrease, ending with a ws row.

Cast off the lapel stitches (all of the seed st), work in pattern to the end of the row.
Cast off 9(9, 9, 10, 11, 11)sts at the beginning of the next row. Work one row in pattern.
Cast off 9,(9, 9, 9, 10, 10)sts at the beginning of the next row. Work one row in pattern.
Cast off remaining 6(7, 7, 7, 9, 9)sts at the beginning of the next row.

Left front:
Cast on 55(61, 67, 71, 75, 83)sts, k5 rows st st followed by one row reverse st st. This will form a hem with a turning row.
Set up row: k12(15, 18, 21, 22, 26). Work row 1 of cable chart, k12(15, 18, 21, 22, 26), [k1, p1] 3 times. These 6sts will form the button band and are to be worked in seed st.
Continue working as set until you have completed the entire chart to complete the waist decreases, remembering to continue the seed st border as set.

To increase back up:
Continue to follow the braided cable chart (rows 47 to 50). Increase one stitch on either side of each cable by making a lifted increase between the two k sts closest to the cables (2sts in all).
Work this increase row every 8th(8th, 8th, 8th, 6th, 8th) row, 6(6, 6, 7, 8, 7) times. You will have 51(57, 63, 69, 75, 81)sts.

AT THE SAME TIME, when work measures 25.5(26.25, 28, 28.75, 30.5, 31.25)cm/10.25(10.5, 11.25, 11.5, 12.25, 12.5)inches from the purl ridge of the hem, begin shaping the lapel.

Shaping the lapel:
Extend the seed st border by incorporating 1st every rs row from the st st panel, until you have only 6(7, 7, 7, 9, 9) st st stitches remaining on the neck side of the cable pattern. Once this point is reached, continue working the lapel on these sts until the shoulder shaping is reached.
Continue following the braided cable chart until work measures 35.5(36.25, 38, 38.75, 40.5, 41.25)cm/14.25(14.5, 15.25, 15.5, 16.25, 16.5)inches from the purl ridge of the hem.

Armhole shaping:
Cast off 4(5, 5, 5, 6, 6)sts at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row.
Cast off 3(3, 3, 4, 3, 3)sts at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row.
Cast off 1st at the beginning of the following 2(2, 2, 3, 3, 4) rs rows.
Continue working until armhole measures 16.5, (17.5, 19, 20, 21.5, 23)cm/6.5(7, 7.5,8, 8.5, 9)inches from the first decrease, ending with a rs row.

Cast off the lapel stitches purlwise (all of the seed st). Work to end of row.
Cast off 9(9, 9, 10, 11, 11)sts at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 rowin pattern.
Cast off 9(9, 9, 9, 10, 10)sts at the beginning of the next row. Work 1 row in pattern.
Cast off remaining 6(7, 7, 7, 9, 9)sts at the beginning of the next row.

Sleeves (both alike):
Cast on 46(46, 48, 50, 56, 60)sts, k5 rows st st followed by one row reverse st st. This will form a hem with a turning row.
Working in st st, increase one stitch at either end of every 8th(8th, 8th, 6th, 7th, 6th) row, 10(13,14,19,18,21) times. You will have 66(72, 76, 88, 92, 102)sts.
Continue to work straight until sleeve measures 43(44, 45, 46, 47, 47)cm/17(17.5,17,75, 18, 18.5, 18.5)inches from purl ridge on hem.

Cap shaping:
Cast off 4(5, 5, 5, 6, 6)sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off 3(3, 3, 4, 3, 3)sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off 1st at each end of the next and every following rs row 18(20, 22, 25, 27, 31) times.
Cast off the remaining 16(16, 16, 20, 20, 22)sts.

Finishing
Block all pieces to the dimensions shown on the schematic diagram (available with pritable version of the pattern) and leave to dry. Sew in all ends.
Sew together shoulder seams, taking care to match the cables as you go.
Sew up the side seams and the sleeve seams.
Set in the sleeves: please note that the sleeves are supposed to be slightly bigger than the armhole openings, ease the extra fullness in towards the top of the sleeve to give it a fuller look.
Sew the sleeves into the garment.
Turn up all the hems and sew into place with a hemming st, sew on the buttons to correspond with the buttonholes.
Optional: to neaten and stabilise the neckline, add a row of single crochet.

About the Designer
Janine Le Cras lives, works and windsurfs on the beautiful island of Guernsey in the English Channel. If she is not knitting, designing or spinning, you will probably find her on her favourite beach. Visit her blog, Knitting on an Island.

Contact Janine