Vintage Lace from Vintage Books
By Cindy Moore
click here for printer friendly version
A few years ago, I bought several reproductions of vintage pattern books. A couple of times I tried to knit a scarf from the lace patterns in The Art of Knitting 1897 and was immediately frustrated. No yarn was suggested, no needle size recommended and no gauge. Plus it was like reading a foreign language. After several tries I finally figured out the pattern and was pleased with the lovely lace.
Understanding the pattern was fun and challenging and from there I made it my mission to rewrite and/or chart as many of these lace patterns as I could to share with other knitters. In this article you will discover the range of possibilities available when working with vintage stitch patterns, and learn tips and techniques for making the most of your vintage knitting.
Photographs: Cindy Moore
Requirements
Yarn: About 50 meters of any type of worsted, dk, fingering or lace yarn for each swatch. The yarn you use will determine the size and look of your swatch. Obviously worsted and dk are best for scarves while fingering and lace is better for lace.
Needles and notions: Use whatever needles are recommended for the yarn, experiment with needle sizes. Stitch markers, crochet hook
*Yarn and needle suggestions will be given for each swatch
Tension
Since we are experimenting with swatches, tension isn’t important. If you plan to use any of the swatches to design a garment, keep detailed notes as to needle size, yarn and tension.
Pattern Notes
The source of the pattern will be listed with each swatch.
Instructions
Prince of Wales’ Feather Design
From Fancy and Practical Knitting published in 1902
Yarn: DK Worsted wool
Needles: 4.5mm (7US)
This is an old (it was old even in 1902) pattern that was very popular at the time the Prince of Wales was married. It resembles the coat of arms — a plume of three white ostrich feathers — used by Albert Edward. http://www.answers.com/topic/prince-of-wales-s-feathers
The top swatch (which has been blocked) was knitted in a slightly variegated fingering yarn on size 3mm (US3 or 11UK) needles and the bottom swatch was knitted in a dk weight on size 4.5mm (US7 or 10.5UK) needles. I’ve left the bottom swatch on the needles because I intend on finishing it as a neck warmer.
I really like the detail of the variegated pattern on the fingering weight yarn. It’s hard to find patterns that work well with variegated yarn, but I think this one would be perfect. I also like how the bound off edge makes a scallop too which means it would make a nice shawl. This will also be perfect finish for my neck warmer.
Cast on 50 stitches. The design can be made any width but half of the pattern must always be on each side.
Editor's note: the chart for this pattern has been included in the printable version.
Knit one set up row.
Row 1: k1, (k2tog) 4 times; (yo, k1) 8 times; (k2tog) 8 times; (yo, k1) 8 times; (k2tog) 4 times, k1
Row 2: p
Knitted Eyelet Edge – 6B
From the Art of Knitting 1897 published in 1897
Yarn: Fingering or lace weight yarn
Needles: 4mm (6US) for top sample and 2mm (0US) for bottom sample.
The top sample is knit with fingering weight yarn using a size 4mm (6US or 8UK). This is actually a bit heavy for lace edging but I thought it was necessary to show the lace pattern details.
The bottom sample is knit with lace weight cashmere on size 2mm (0US or14UK). It was a challenge handling the small yarn and needles with such a complicated pattern. The suggested needle size was 1.25 mm (0000US or 18 UK). I tried using the tinier needles with the cashmere but I just don’t have the eyes for it.
Cast on 8 stitches
Knit one set up row.
Row 1: sl1 wyif, k1, yo, yo, p2tog, k2, yo, yo, yo, k2 (12 stitches)
Row 2: k2, k1-p1-k1 in 3 yo, k2, yo, yo, p2tog, k2 (12 stitches)
Row 3: sl1 wyif, k1, yo, yo, p2tog, k7 (12 stitches)
Row 4: k7, yo, yo, p2tog, k2 (12 stitches)
Row 5: sl1 wyif, k1, yo, yo, p2tog, k7 (12 stitches)
Row 6: bo 3 st, k3, yo, yo, p2tog, k2 (9 stitches)
Repeat to the desired length, then knit one more row plain.
Tip: Count your stitches at the end of each row. If you don’t have the correct number of stitches, you probably missed one of the yarn overs. When knitting the yarn overs, slip the entire yarn over off the needle.
Design for Top of Socks or Mittens – 3A
From the Art of Knitting 1897 published in 1897
Yarn: Fingering or sock
Needles: 3mm (3US or 11UK)
The top swatch is knitted with fingering weight and size 3mm (US3 or 11UK) needle and looks great for socks.
To show the pattern more clearly, I knitted the bottom swatch with dk weight and size 5mm (8US or 6UK) needle so you can see the detail. The pattern suggests that it would be ideal for the top of mittens or socks and I agree.
Cast on 10 stitches. (I added an edge stitch (12 stitches cast on) to each end for the swatch to make the yarn over easier to manage. If you were using this pattern for socks or mittens, you would not need the edge stitch and you would knit the even rows instead of purl).
Knit 1 set up row
Row 1: k1. yo, k3, sl1-ktog-psso, k3, yo
Row 2: purl
Continue until desired length.
These swatches illustrate only a fraction of what is available to the knitter interested in working with vintage patterns. You can find all the patterns I’ve rewritten on my website: http://www.technicalillustrator.net/Lace.html or visit my blog at http://fitterknitter.livejournal.com/.
About the Author
Cindy Moore loves knitting and charting vintage lace patterns. She delights in watching the pattern from the chart transform into lace on her needles. Visit her website at: http://www.fitterknitter.com.
This article is copyright © 2008 to Cindy Moore. All rights reserved.