Maude

By Diane Mulholland

I’ve never known anyone called Maude, but if I did, I know she would be sassy and pert in an old-fashioned kind of way. This little top is just like her, combining vintage features with modern seamless construction and finished off with the perfect buttons, drawing attention to the textured lace bodice. Dress up with a black skirt, dress down with jeans, you’ll find plenty of ways to sport your Maude.

Photographs: Kate Blackburn Model: Diane Mulholland

Size
Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL)
To fit chest/bust: 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46)inches
Shown in size medium

Requirements
Yarn: 3 (3, 3, 4, 5,) balls Fiddlesticks Jaggerspun Zephyr (50% wool/50% silk, 630yds/2oz) in colour: Juniper
Note: yarn is used doubled throughout.
Needles: 3mm/60cm circular needle, 3mm/80cm circular needle, 3.75mm/60cm circular needle, 3.75mm/80cm circular needle
Notions: stitch markers, smooth waste yarn for holding stitches, 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) 1.5cm buttons.

Tension
30 sts and 40 rows = 10cm/4inches in stocking stitch
36 sts and 40 rows = 10cm/4inches in relaxed 2x2 ribbing

Pattern Notes

Maude is constructed seamlessly from the top down and worked entirely in the round. See Diane's article for more information on this method. Varying lengths of circular needles are needed as stitch count changes and a set of interchangeable needles is convenient. Double-pointed needles are listed for working the sleeves, substitute 30cm circulars or magic loop method if you prefer.

The lace pattern is designed to be full and textured and therefore is not blocked. The figure-hugging ribbed waist contrasts with this texture. Garter rib and plain rib are combined to provide subtle shaping. For a less fitted look, work the body in garter rib throughout.

Due to the nature of the lace pattern, it is important not to count stitches after rounds 3 or 9. In order for the chart to line up neatly, numbers within the chart refer to the number of stitches knitted at that position. A change in beginning of round is also required at the end of round 4 of Chart C.

The ribbing is always measured unstretched, be aware that once you try on your work the length will change dramatically. For a precisely tailored waist work the 2x2 rib section from 2.5 inches before to 2.5 inches after the narrowest point of your waist.

Abbreviations
The standard list of Inside Loop abbreviations can be found here.

Instructions

Yoke:
Using 3mm/60cm needle cast on 176 (200, 200, 200, 224)sts, join and place marker for beginning of round at right front shoulder.
Round one: k1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1. At the same time place markers to divide the yoke into four sections with 62 (68, 68, 68, 74)sts in front and back and 26 (32, 32, 32, 38)sts for each sleeve.

Work 8 more rounds of ribbing.
Round 10: working in rib pattern as set, increase 4 sts evenly in round, (63 (69, 69, 69, 75)sts in front and back and 27 (33, 33, 33, 39)sts for each sleeve).

Commence pattern:
Change to shorter 3.75mm needle
Work first row of Chart A – Front over next group of stitches to marker. Note: there is a different chart for XS and XL sizes.
Work the same number of pattern sections on each side of the central garter stitch band.

Work first row of Chart B – Back and Sleeves over the next three groups of stitches.

Continue working from charts for a total of 3 (3, 4, 5, 5) pattern repeats, finishing with round 11. As stitch count increases you will need to change to the longer 3.75mm needle.




Note: charts will appear much larger in printable version

Divide for body:
Next round: knit to next marker, *slip sleeve stitches onto smooth waste yarn, using backwards loop method cast on 15 (15, 21, 21, 27)sts for underarm,* knit across back to next marker, repeat from * to * (228 (240, 276, 300, 324)sts in body.

Working from Chart C – Body and Sleeve, work 6 (6, 12, 12, 18) further rounds of lace pattern. Note: at the end of round4: remove marker, k1 and slip this st to end of round, replace marker for new beginning of round.

Next round: knit, decreasing evenly over the round so that 188 (200, 216, 248, 272)sts remain. Change back to 3mm needle.

Ribbing:
Round 1: k1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1
Round 2: k
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until ribbing measures 2.5 (3, 3, 3.5, 4) inches, unstretched.
Work round 1 only for 5 inches.
Change back to garter rib, working rounds 1 and 2 for a further 2.5 (3, 3, 3.5, 4) inches or until you have reached the desired length.
Note: not everyone is the same length of course! Trying on as you go will ensure the best fit. Centre the 2x2 rib section over the narrowest part of your waist.
Cast off very loosely in rib (use larger needles if necessary to achieve a stretchy hem).

Sleeves: (both alike)
Replace 61 (69, 81, 93, 99) held sts of sleeve on 3.75mm double-pointed needles. Join yarn and knit across, pick up and knit 8 (8, 11, 11, 14)sts from underarm, pm†, pick up and knit 7 (7, 10, 10, 13) sts, k2, pm†† (76 (84, 102, 114, 126)sts)

† This marker indicates the centre of the underarm. Centre stitch is to right of marker.
†† This marker indicates beginning of round.

Working from Chart C – Body and Sleeve, work 6 (6, 12, 12, 18) further rounds of lace pattern. Remember to move marker at end of each round 4.
At the same time, while keeping pattern correct, on each odd round decrease 1 st either side of centre underarm stitch.

Next round: knit, decreasing evenly over the round so that 68 (76, 84, 88, 92)sts remain. Change to 3mm double-pointed needles.
Work 10 rounds of k2, p2 ribbing. Cast off very loosely in rib (use larger needles if necessary to achieve a stretchy hem).

Finishing
Darn in ends. Using a single strand of yarn sew buttons to front garter stitch band.

About the Yarn
Fiddlesticks yarns are based in Canada and several of their products are available in the UK. Zephyr is available online from The Woolly Workshop.

About the Designer
Diane Mulholland had the good fortune to grow up on an Australian sheep farm and a love of all things fibre-related is a natural result. A long way from home now, she tries her best to fit as much wool as possible into her tiny London flat. Read about what she’s been up to at her blog, Needles on the Move.

Contact Diane