Arbacia

By Woolly Wormhead

Berets are said to be ‘in’ this season, but they never really go out of vogue. Classic and elegant, this version has a gentle drape and using sock yarn, is light yet warm enough for spring evenings. Constructed sideways by knitting on straight needles, using short rows for shaping and provisional cast-on then Kitchener stitch for a perfect, seam-free finish.

This Hat pattern is ideal for those who love a different technique, or who loathe working in the round or fighting with dpns. The gentle cables provide an elegant and stable brim, whilst the body with its eyelets provide a casual, generous shape.

Photographs: Ruth Paisley Model: Daryna Budat

Size
S(M, L) (also see pattern notes for how to adjust)
To fit head size: 48.25(53.25, 56)cm/19(21, 22)inches
Actual size: 47.5(52, 55.25)cm/18.75(20.5, 21.75)inches

Shown in size L

Requirements
Yarn: 1 skein Natural Dye Studio Alpaca/Silk sock yarn (80% alpaca/20% silk, 256m/280yds/100g) in colour: Iris.
Needles: 1 pair 3mm/2-3US straight needles.
Notions: crochet hook and waste yarn.

Tension
26 sts and 34 rows = 10cm/4inches in stocking stitch.
Please note that row tension is more important than stitch tension for this pattern.

Pattern Notes
The cables make a firm, less stretchy brim so it is recommended that you knit a size only slightly smaller than desired, with only a slight amount, up to 2.5cm/1 inch, of negative ease.

You could substitute any sock yarn or 4ply/fingering weight that gives the right tension (remembering that row tension is the important one!) although the drape of the Alpaca/Silk blend lends itself perfectly to this soft, casual hat.

Each panel starts with a wrong side row, and finishes with a right side row.

For all sizes, repeat the following 24(30, 36) rows a total of 9(8, 7) times.

The recommended method for provisional cast-on is the crochet or chain cast-on.

Stocking stitch Kitchener is required for grafting, click here for a tutorial.

Alteration Notes
If you wish to alter the width of this hat, you can easily work more or less panels. For instance, repeating the medium size panel 7 times instead of 8 will give a finished size of 46cm/18inches, or repeating the large panel 6 times instead of 7 will give a finished size the same as the small size (55.25cm/18.75inches) but with a slightly longer body.

To calculate any adjustments in width, take the actual size given and divide that by the number of stated repeats to find out the width of each panel. Then divide the desired head size by this number to give the closest number of repeats needed.

If you wish to knit more than seven repeats of the largest size panel you may require more than one skein.

Abbreviations
The Inside Loop’s list of standard abbreviations can be found here.

w&t – wrap and turn: On a knit row bring yarn forward, slip next stitch purlwise then take yarn back. On a purl row, take yarn back, slip next stitch purlwise, then bring yarn forward. This ensures that after the wrap the yarn is always in the right place to work the next stitch. To pick up and work the wrap – pick it up from the right side of the work, then either knit or purl depending on pattern requirements into the backs of the loops, knitting/purling both the loop and stitch together.
yo – yarn over (creates false stitch)
k2tog – knit next 2 stitches together
p2tbl – purl next 2 stitches together through the backs of the loops
C6B – place next 3 stitches onto a cable needle and place at back of work. Then knit the next 3 stitches, and then the 3 stitches from the cable needle.

Instructions
Using waste yarn, and preferred provisional cast-on method, cast on 66(68, 70)sts.
Change to main yarn.
Row 1: p44(46, 48), [yo, p2tbl, P5] 3 times, p1.
Row 2: k1, [C6B, k1] 3 times, k1, [yo, k2tog] 21(22, 23)times, w&t.
Row 3: p42(44, 46), w&t.
Row 4: k41(43, 45), w&t.
Row 5: p42(44, 46), [yo, p2tbl, p5] 3 times, p1.
Row 6: k63(65, 67), w&t.
Row 7: p41(43, 45), [yo, p2tbl, p5] 3 times, p1.
Row 8: k1, [C6B, k1] 3 times, k41(43, 45), w&t.
Row 9: p39(41, 43), w&t.
Row 10: k38(40, 42), w&t.
Row 11: p39(41, 43), [yo, p2tbl, p5] 3 times, p1.
Row 12: k60(62, 64), w&t.
Row 13: p38(40, 42), [yo, p2tbl, p5] 3 times, p1.
Row 14: k1, [C6B, k1] 3 times, k1, [yo, k2tog] 18(19, 20) times, w&t.
Row 15: p36(38, 40), w&t.
Row 16: k35(37, 39), w&t.
Row 17: p36(38, 40), [yo, p2tbl, p5] 3 times, p1.
Row 18: k57(59, 61), w&t.
Row 19: p35(37, 39), [yo, p2tbl, p5] 3 times, p1.
Row 20: k1, [C6B, k1] 3 times, k34(36, 38), w&t.
Row 21: p33(35, 37), w&t.
Row 22: k32(34, 36), w&t.
Row 23: p33(35, 37), [yo, p2tbl, p5] 3 times, p1.

Note: charts will appear much larger in printable version

Rows 24 to 29 M and L sizes only.
Row 24: k56(58).
Row 25: p34(36), [yo, p2tbl, p5] 3 times, p1.
Row 26: k1, [C6B, k1] 3 times, k33(35), w&t.
Row 27: p32(34), w&t.
Row 28: k31(33), w&t.
Row 29: p32(34), [yo, p2tbl, p5] 3 times, p1.

Rows 30 to 35 L size only.
Row 30: k55, w&t.
Row 31: p33, [yo, p2tbl, p5] 3 times, p1.
Row 32: k1, [C6B, K1] 3 times, k32, w&t.
Row 33: p31, w&t.
Row 34: k30, w&t.
Row 35: p31, [yo, p2tbl, p5] 3 times, p1.

All sizes:
Row 36: k across all stitches, picking up the wraps as you go – 66(68, 70) sts.

Finishing
Carefully remove provisional cast-on stitch by stitch, taking care to keep in pattern, transferring live stitches to second needle.

If you’re brave enough, omit the last row on the last repeat as this will be replaced by the Kitchener stitch. When grafting across short rows, pick up the wrap as you have done previously (from the right side of the work) and place it onto the needle, then lift both the wrap and stitch off and twist towards you. Then place back on the needle and perform Kitchener as normal. This method of lifting and twisting the wrap and stitch is equivalent to knitting into the back of these, and so will keep your work in pattern. Thread yarn through edge stitches and pull to tighten. You will be grafting from the bottom of the hat up.

If you find the idea of grafting across short rows daunting, then knit across all stitches as per instructions on final row of final panel. Then thread yarn through crown stitches, pull to tighten, and continue to perform Kitchener stitch across all live stitches. You will be grafting from the top of the hat down. Working this way will add an additional row to the width of your hat. However, this extra row really won’t be noticeable.

Weave in all ends and gently block to finish. The best way to block a beret is to lay it flat with the crown at the centre.

About the Yarn
Natural Dye Studio Alpaca/Silk is dyed with natural plant dyes. It is available online from The Natural Dye Studio.

About the Designer
Fascinated by unusual construction methods and obsessed with Hats, Woolly Wormhead recently released her first book, Going Straight, consisting entirely of sideways Hat designs. When she’s not conjuring up ideas for funky headgear, she spends her time travelling in her converted house bus with her partner and soon-to-appear baby. Her website can be found at: http://woollywormhead.com

Contact Woolly Wormhead